We left Villafranca del Bierzo at 8:30, just Nancy and I. For once I read the guide book by our BFF, Mr. Briarly, very well. I must give him credit for going into great detail about the various routes and hazards involved in today's hike.
We hiked up and down Alto Pradela, more than 300 metres up. Most Peregrinos skirted the mountain altogether. There were many warnings about only the very fittest should be doing this hike. Plus, there had been a fire recently. We didn't know this, so ignorance is bliss. Peregrinos had been warned to stay away for that reason. We didn't know, so we weren't afraid.
It was a glorious day, absolutely magnificent. We did our first sun salutation in as many days. We met only nine other Peregrinos the entire morning. One interesting woman was from Calgary. She was acting as guide, for her first paying client, and accompanying her, another woman from Calgary, on The Camino. Funny thing is, the guide was out of shape, lagging behind the client, didn't speak Spanish, didn't know where her hiker client was and didn't really seem to be with the tour, so to speak.
Right away I thought "I could do a better job. I am fit, speak the language, and seem a lot more "debrouillarde" than her." Hey, there is another possible job opportunity for me, a new business - Walk the Camino with Joanne! Any future clients out there?
Once we had reached the summit, we went through beautiful pine laden pathways. I must admit that some of the hike up gave me vertigo - the path was very narrow. Even hugging the right, the left side was a mere foot or two away, and a sheer, sheer drop down the mountainside.
Chestnut orchards were along the top, for what seemed like miles. I was slightly ahead of Nancy when I heard a noise, that sounded like a motorcycle. I came upon the owner of this huge place, weed whacking his chestnut orchard. We hadn't been near civilization for four hours. Nancy could hear but not see him, and thought I was lying when I told her. It was a bit of an unusual sight!
At the bottom of the mountain, we had to hike back half a kilometre to the nearest pueblo, to have lunch. Well, that half a kilometre seemed like four. When we got there, I asked the owner if there was a taxi service in town. I was so tired! I thought, "There is no way I am hiking back out of this village, to continue the Camino". I was delirious. I think! Me, who is so thoroughly ANAL, and is determined to walk every single step of this trek, actually thought I would take a taxi? Even though it wouldn't count, because I was retracing steps I had already taken. Well, a good lunch and a glass of Sangria later, out the door I went, to tell the taxi driver, Jose, who was still standing in the middle of street in the village chatting, that we were going to hike back out again. He just smiled and nodded. He must meet crazy (locas) Peregrinos every day!
We finished the second half of our day with a seven kilometre hike along the Rio Valcarce , which we crossed six times. We had shade, some natural path, and it was a wonderful way to end a wonderful day.
I can't afford to be a princess anymore and sleep in these private hostals. Nancy is so good about humouring me, as we slum it in an Albergue Municipal tonight. There are 6 bunkbeds in a room, not 18, and it is a clean, functional hostel run by a wonderfully helpful man named Txema and his pooch Leo. We even went to the supermarket, bought food and fixings to make our own soup and grilled cheese for supper. This was a our FIRST real homemade meal on The Camino. Maybe this slumming it isn't so bad! We should last another day or two, and then run back to those private rooms. LOL
At some point I will try to blog about food for all you foodies out there (Numero 1, ma soeur Louise!), and about doing the Camino on a budget. Howeve, not today. No time. It is lights out soon in the pueblo.
I just want to add that the rain jacket that I borrowed from my daughter Joëlle, is absolutely incredible! I was bone dry after quite a few days of hiking in the rain. My companions, with their big ponchos, were not. When Joëlle told me the exhorbitant amount of money she and Alec had paid for these Canadian made jackets, I thought "That is ridiculous!" However, I have changed my mind. Here is my shameless plug for that company "Arc Teryx". They make superior rain gear, and if you can afford it, you should buy one of their stylish, yet oh so functional jackets. I know for sure, that the next time I go on a big hiking trip, I am going to ask Joëlle if I can borrow her rain jacket again!
Good night Carole! I hope Patsy forwards this posting to you. Would you Patsy, please? I am so lucky to have such good friends.
Tomorrow we hike another mountain, and stay overnight at the top. We are less than 200 km from Santiago de Compostella.
We have ten days left to make it, God willing.
With love and gratitude from the tiny pueblo of Vega de Valcarce, not far from O'Cebreiro, Spain.
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