who is an awesome mother to three young boys, and another person for whom I have the greatest admiration. I think Angel will know why today was dedicated to her.
Michel and I left the Monastery at 6:55, our usual time. It is not as cold, and it really is a perfect day for hiking. The sun comes out and I do my daily sun salutation, dropping my walking stick, and doing this little daily ritual. I pass a tenter, a young man camped out on my left, who is doing the same sun salutation I just did.
I hike pretty much on my own all morning, from Sahagun, through various villages. We have breakfast in Bercianos del Real Camino, where the owners have this beautiful, new, clean café bar and restaurant. When I ask why they play North American music (some Canadian or American female folk singer, but her name escapes me),and not Spanish, they tell me it is because it is calm and soothing. No Spanish folk singers then, I guess, sing calm and soothing songs? Great place to stop, mon oncle Eloi et Louise. I will post the picture with the owner Andrea, and the name of the café.
The senda (pathway) is somewhat shaded, and although it is besides the autopista, it really is nice. Hey, this is still the Meseta, 900 metres about sea level, and the scenery is still the same - flat, dry, arid, with fields of things growing I don't recognize.
I notice between Bercianos del Real Camino, and El Burgo Ranero, that there are these same pieces of paper on the path. They are a lot of them, neatly written in black on note sized paper. I finally pick one up, out of curiosity, and see that is an advertisement for a Bar-Café-Albergue in El Burgo. It seems like creative advertising gone amok. Why would these little leaflets be scattered all over, indiscriminately? I am so curious, so I decide to stop into that establishment when I get there.
I arrive, and it has such a cute sidewalk patio set up. I go up to the owner, and show him the paper I picked up. He looks at me with big, sad brown eyes, and says "Someone took all our papers, and they throw all around, to make us look dirty".
Here is the the story of Manuel and Svetlana, the operators of this Albergue. Manuel is Spanish, and Svetlana is Bulgarian. They met on the Camino in 2012, and fell in love. For two years they worked in the hospitality industry of the Camino, until they had enough money to lease this place for six months, and have their own business. It has been very difficult for them. They have not been accepted by many in this small town. Competition is very fierce for the peregrino dollar, and some have resorted to dirty tactics, it seems. They tell me their story, without rancour, and with sadness. They are Muslim. They don't tell me that, but I know they are.
Their Albergue is beautiful, and Svetlana proudly shows me their beautiful garden. I wish I could stay here, but I have to meet the others in Reliegos. However, Lucy my Belgian friend, stops in with me, and Michel. I decide to support this lovely couple, so I spent all my day's budget here. I buy sangria and olives, homemade postcards and Camino flechas made by Svetlana. Any other Peregrino going by (it is by now around lunch time), I tell them in three languages that it is a marvelous place to stop. An American and his Italian girlfriend stop, for the same reason I did. They picked up the advertising note on the ground. They decide to stay the night. So, maybe these dirty tactics will work in reverse?
I spend almost two hours there, chatting with Svetlana. She tells me their lease is up at the end of October, and they will NOT renew. They will be leaving, and have taken the steps to open another Albergue closer to Leon. They hope to be in business early next year.
The others have gone on. I give her a big hug, wish her and Manuel well, and go on my way, thinking "Why is it so hard to accept others who are different from us?" Here is a young couple who could have stayed here and helped rebuild a dying village, and instead they are being driven out by narrow mindedness and ignorance. The bigger city of Leon will be more welcoming, I hope.
I arrive in Reliegos by 3:30. It has been a 30km day, but I did it my way, stopping and doing what I wanted, as I was alone. Lucy is already at destination, having a drink outside, when I arrive, and where my wonderful partner on this journey, has procured our rooms and worked her magic.
I go to the bar to get a drink of Sangria. I think that Spaniards are NOT used to North American women speaking Spanish. This guy named Marcel strikes up a big conversation with me, as I order. I figure he is the owner. He isn't.
What Marcel is the the Don Juan of Sahagun, a "bon vivant" " chanteur de pomme" philosopher of the village, who is totally charming and tries to bewitch five, sixty something women (sorry Nancy, I know you are only 59!)
I can understand him as long as he speaks Spanish, but when he tries to throw in his little bit of English and French, then everything becomes pretty much "Greek" to me! He buys some drinks for those not drinking, Baerbel and Joan; he then gets himself a drink and proceeds to stand there and discuss the Spanish government, life and current affairs. It really was a lot of fun! I was quite content to sit there and be entertained by this Lothario, who kept trying to flatter us all with his compliments. I am not about to forget Marcel! Besides, he reminded me a lot of my cousin Bruno in his looks and his way of talking. J'espère que ça ne te dérange pas que je dise cela Bruno!
I can understand him as long as he speaks Spanish, but when he tries to throw in his little bit of English and French, then everything becomes pretty much "Greek" to me! He buys some drinks for those not drinking, Baerbel and Joan; he then gets himself a drink and proceeds to stand there and discuss the Spanish government, life and current affairs. It really was a lot of fun! I was quite content to sit there and be entertained by this Lothario, who kept trying to flatter us all with his compliments. I am not about to forget Marcel! Besides, he reminded me a lot of my cousin Bruno in his looks and his way of talking. J'espère que ça ne te dérange pas que je dise cela Bruno!
Sorry these last two paragraphs are underlined. I don't know how that happened and I am not about to play around with editing and lose my blog.
I have my first big blister, on the heel of my right foot. Lucy comes and bandages me all up, bless her heart. Nancy is usually the foot care giver.
Tomorrow Nancy will attempt to to walk to Leon. If not all 24 km, then some. Ninety kilometres in three days - I am doing okay!
Blogging, laundry, a cold sandwich in our room, a glass of wine on the patio with Lucy, and it is bedtime again, at 9:30. Tomorrow, we do it all again. For that, and all that this Camino has meant and been for me up to now, I am full of ...
love and gratitude for where I am, Reliegos, Spain.
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