Day 38 - September 28: dedicated to an old, supportive friend who is celebrating a birthday today...

the same age I celebrated 12 days ago. Happy Birthday CVF!  I hope it is a special day for you and that there will be a Camino in your future.  I await your "proposal" when I get home to Canada!

On the 37th day, Nancy and Joanne rested..... NOT! We did sleep in until 8:30.  Incroyable!  We didn't have to put our boots on, but we did walk. We went sightseeing, shopping and generally did the turista thing.  Santiago is a beautiful city. Our little choochoo train tour near sunset, was wonderful.  I understood about 80% of what the bilingual tour guide said in Spanish, and 30% of what she said in ENGLISH.  Honest!

Nancy spent so much time helping this Italian named Jack (what Italian is called Jack?) back on the terrace of our pension, with his damn phone.  It was just too comical listening to him chatter on in Italian about his problems, have him ask Nancy "Capische?" and Nancy answer "NO!" Nancy has yet to meet someone she doesn't want to help.  She was ever so patient, and persisted in helping him until she had solved some of his problems, like a phone full of junk taking up all his memory.  He even came looking for her, when she had gone for a nap, but I told him nicely, when he started exclaiming that he couldn't catch Wifi, and kept moving his chair around the terrace, to "Sientate y tranquilo", a mix of Italian and Spanish I think.  He wasn't getting any sympathy or help from me.  LOL

Today was extra special. We attended the English mass in a small chapel in the Cathedral.  There were a lot of Irish there. The priest Father Joe was from County Cork, Ireland, and was officiating.  We were around 100 people.  I volunteered to do the first reading, seeing as I am so shy!  At the beginning of Mass, we all introduced ourselves and said where we were from, and what we had done on the Camino.  The communion hymns were " Here I am Lord" and "The Psalm from St. Francis of Assisi."  Well, that's when I started crying again. A young American whom I had met the night before, put a comforting hand on my shoulder.

I think I am beginning to realize that my Camino is over, and I don't want it to be over.  I just want to put my backpack back on, get Vimy over here on the next flight, pick up my stick and keep hiking, to Finisterre, and then what?  I have to go home, but right now it is with a heavy heart.

Let me leave you with a few more thoughts on my Camino. Did I tell you about the American woman
who arrived at Rabanal, near the Cruz de Fero, not feeling well? At the pharmacy, they gave her some pills and sent her on her way.  She signed in at the Albergue, where the volunteer at reception, the hospitalero, was a physician from London, England. He told she was a sick woman, and sent her in a taxi, to Astorga, the town with the nearest major hospital. She was having a heart attack.  She survived, and this year, three years later, came back to that same Albergue, where the volunteer was once again there, to thank him personally for saving her life. An awesome and true story!

I am humbled by how many compliments and notes of congratulations I have received. I feel totally undeserving. I may be determined and stubborn, but I am NOT courageous.  True courage is shown every day on the Camino, by paraplegiacs being wheeled by a loving family member; by a mother and her sons, donkey and dog, tenting; by a son leading his blind father, for the second year in a row; by Birgit who stomped around our albergue one night, on the stumps of her knees, radiating life and vitality, in spite of physical limitations that we would all find debilitating. THOSE are courageous people and there are thousands of them out there.

We start winging our way home to New Brunswick and Michigan tonight, starting with a flight to Madrid.

I hope to blog back in Canada on a few subjects like the food in Spain; how to budget on the Camino; as well as wrap up a few stories I did not have time to tell.  I will be posting today's pictures. As well, I hope to do a reflective piece on what the Camino has meant to me.  This was my personal diary, and not just a blog.  I was more than happy to share my journey with all of you, from old, dear friends, to people I didn't know at all, to my Grade 7 teacher, to friends of friends, and of course, to my family and extended family.  Many of you kept me going, with your ongoing show of support, especially on those difficult days when  I thought I had reached the end of my rope.  How blessed I have been in my life and how I continue to be blesssed!

Signing off for the last time from Santiago de Compostella, Spain, on a sunny Monday, with love, gratitude, and humility.

Joanne

THE DAY - September 26, 2015

The was the final day in what has been the journey of a lifetime for me. A journey which I shared with my old friend Nancy. It has been a privilege.

I am humbled and ever so grateful for your generous, kind, encouraging and all too laudatory comments, as I near the end of my pilgrimage.   Thank you, merci, gracias, obrigado, grazie, danke schön!

Nancy and I left at 8:15 -  our last of everything; putting on our boots and grabbing our walking sticks.  It was our last roadside stop for a second café before getting into Santiago. It was our last sunrise, our last sun saluation, our last hill to climb, our last times to say Buen Camino... I could go on and on.

We left with our new friend, 80 year old Barb, but we ate her dust. She was gone by midmorning.

We walked slowly, reminiscing and reliving our last 35 days.

The number of pilgrims increased as we approached Santiago, on a PERFECT day.  What transpired was magical, because we had no idea whether we would make it into Santiago in time for the high mass at noon.  We did! We walked, walked, walked, and walked right up the steps into the Cathedral at 11:55.

There were no seats, but I quickly found a spot in the centre where I could see the nun speaking to the congregation.  I had my stick in hand, my backpack on, and I was a true Peregrino, because I smelled!  (Walking 10 km on a humid morning will do it!)

It was standing room only.  The nun stopped speaking, doors opened to my left, and a procession of eight priests passed right in front of me. I could have touched their robes.  I turned, and for an hour stood there, listening to the mass said in Spanish, and responding when I could be fast enough to recognize where we were, in English or in French.  Sometimes I leaned my head and hands on my stick.  I listened and understood much of what the priest said, and the words of a young Syrian woman, who did what we call in French, a "témoinage". Elle venait de finir son Compostelle, comme nous.  Elle nous a demandé de prier et d'aider les Chrétiens dans le monde, qui sont victimes de torture, et sont tués, sont massacrés, comme le sont les Chrétiens dans son pays de Syrie.  Elle a parlé de sa famille, de son frère qu'elle n'a pas vu depuis six mois. Elle ne sait pas s'il est vivant.  Ses grandsparents sont morts dans cette guerre en Syrie. The priest's sermon was in response to her testimonial.

At the end of the mass, the priest blessed all the pilgrims.  He asked us to go in peace and practice peace. It was only when the procession passed in front of me again, that I felt the tears run down my cheeks. Don't ask me why. Je n'ai aucune idée.  Perhaps I had found comfort and solace, after this long journey, in the rituals and traditions of mass in the Catholic Church.  These traditions and rituals are universal. They transcend all boundaries of language and culture.

I felt a lightness as we descended the steps of this beautiful Cathedral.  We took a few pictures, stood in line for an hour and a half to get our "Credencial" validated. I paid 5 Euros, made a donation and received my two certificates, one attesting to my being a real Peregrina, and the other attesting to the distance I walked.

We had a very late lunch in the Plaza Quintana right outside the Cathedral, meeting up again with our German friend Barbel from Day 1. How apropos! We saw other Peregrinos we had met along the way. We stopped to hug, congratulate each other and just be genuinely happy and grateful for this journey, this "grand périple".

There is always, always so much more that I want to write. However, that is enough for today. In a day or two I will write a reflective piece.

I leave you with this quote, - a spiritual maxim.

"I am not a human being on a spiritual journey.
I am a spiritual being on a human journey.

This journey has ended for me today, but another has begun.

With love and infinite gratitude from Santiago de Compostella, Spain.

Marie Marjolaine Joanne Duguay

Day 35- September 25: The last and the most important dedication is to ...

my children Sean and Joëlle. The day that Sean was placed in my arms, so calm and sweetly sleeping, and the day that Joëlle was placed in my arms, red faced and howling, were THE best days of my life. You both have given me the gift and the joys of motherhood. I can think of no greater blessing in my life than to have been your mother. Mes chers enfants, je vous aime et je suis fière de vous deux. A little bit of me will live on in you. I am blessed!

Nancy and I will no longer be Peregrino virgins as of tomorrow. We hiked a paltry 16 km today before calling it quits for the day. That is the shortest day I have hiked since August 22nd. Tomorrow we have less than 10 km to go.

Each journey begins with single step and my first step was taken 35 days ago today. I will have hiked every step of the way of the Camino Frances, more than 820 km. I don't know how I feel. Maybe I will know tomorrow?

My thoughts and prayers tonight are also with my dear friend Jane; her father Ian passed away yesterday.

Signing off for the last time before I complete my journey - de mon grand périple, de mi Camino- always, toujours y siempre, with love and infinite gratitude, from Lavacolla, Spain.

Joanne

Day 34- September 24: dedicated to my walking stick, mon bâton, mi baston. Il s'appelle Fidèle.

Fidèle m'a suit partout. Je l'ai oublié ici et là, mais il ne m'en a jamais voulu pour ça.  Il m'a appuyé, était toujours à la main, ou dans une main, chaque jour et chaque pas que j'ai fait.  J'ai du remplacer les douilles trois fois, mais la dernière que j'ai posée, juste avant Léon, il porte toujours.  Il a reçu énormément de compliments, mon beau Fidèle.  J'ai dit merci pour lui.  Merci encore une fois mon oncle Jean, du beau cadeau.  Je t'aime ben gros!!!

Today, Day 34, started with me almost getting killed after breakfast.  I was ahead of Nancy, leaving Melida. At the crosswalk, the car stopped and I started to cross. WELL, they guy behind him didn't want to wait.  He pulled out, just as I was clearing that car, and almost hit me. He had to break, I had to swerve out of the way, with him stopping not two feet away from me. Scared? You bet! However, I was more worried about Nancy behind me who hadn't seen any of this, so after I finished crossing, I waited for her, and YELLED at her to be careful crossing.  Scared her half to death.  I honestly think this was a hazard of being SHORT! He didn't see me crossing and figured the car ahead of him had stopped for another reason, I am guessing.  Gee whiz! I would have hated to get hurt or killed less than 50 km from Santiago!

Later on that morning, I met a remarkable Frenchman named Serge.  We had already heard about him on The Way.  As soon as I saw him, I went up to him and in three languages said "May I shake your hand?" You see, he was picking up garbage with a stick and putting it into a big garbage bag.  He answered me in French and we had a lovely conversation.  He has done the Camino 28 times, leaving from Paris (where he is from), from Rome, and other points and various Camino departures in Portugal.  Il m'a dit "La terre est sacrée. Il faut la respecter, car en fin de compte, elle nous donne tout, n'est-ce pas?   That is why he does the Camino, and every time he does it, he picks up garbage.  I find Peregrinos are pretty good about keeping the sendas clear of their garbage, in spite of the fact that until recently, I have seen very few garbage cans.  When I told him I was Acadian, not Québecoise, he said "Allez-vous m'engueuler?"  "Are you going to chew me out?"  I think we Acadians can be a little indignant about being told, "Oh, French Canada?  You are from Québec."  It IS an assumption on The Camino.

That being said, speaking three languages, (two well and one badly) has been so enriching for me.  I gave a history lesson yesterday to two Frenchman, on the Deportation of the Acadians in 1755.  All they really wanted to hear about were the New England Patriots! Like I give a darn about a football team!  LOL

Today was another gorgeous day, with blue skies, birds chirping, and the promise of a warm day. We ended up finding that out, because we hiked for over 9 hours, over 27 km.  We hadn't intended doing that but our BFF, the author of our guide, screwed up major in the calculations of the distance between villages, and we ended up hiking 5 km more than we intended, to get to our Albergue.  It REALLY was a long, hard day.

Those PITAS, the cyclists, are still whizzing by us, some at breakneck speed, downhill and with no warning.  Sometimes I think to myself that I will stick out Fidèle and clothesline one of them, or stick out Fidèle and trip one of them, because they drive me crazy. They are my biggest peeve on the Camino. They have no business being here. True Pilgrims DO NOT use a machine to do The Way of St. James, as it is called in English.

The closer we get to Santiago, the more we see those BIG tour buses. More PITAS!

There are lots of Germans here, and they are SO tall!  Boomers by far, the 50 plus range, are who you see the most on the Camino.  I have met people from over 35 different countries.  Aren't I fortunate?

Since yesterday, we have only seen one Peregrino from way back,  Roberto of the "spaghetti a la carbonara" evening, back in Granon.  Everyone we see is new - just doing the last 100 km to Santiago.

It took us nine hours, plus sheer guts and determination to find our Albergue, because it was off the beaten path.  I have taken to buying a beer to go when we are 2-3 km from destination, especially on warm days. It perks me up for that last stretch.  Our Albergue is a real oasis.  We get there at six, time to indulge and have them do our laundry, while we shower, post a few pics and enjoy an extravagant supper of 1 kg. of grilled T-bone steak.  We have done over 27 km, we figure, and we deserve it, by golly!

It is near 10.  People are going to bed. I am posting a few pictures, when Nancy comes back out from our delightful room, and says "Can you please ask them where my "flecha" T-shirt is? We got our laundry back and it is missing.  Plus, I don't think these belong to you or me!" From behind her back she whips out the smallest black pair of thongs I have EVER seen. I start to laugh right away. I go into the nearly deserted bar, where the owner's daughter is cleaning up and explain our laundry problem. We start to laugh about it. Her mother comes in, and don't they start to throw the thong back and forth between each other.  I am just rolling in the aisle with laughter.  Then at one point, they start to pretend it is a slingshot.  I can barely stand it, I am laughing SO hard my stomach still hurts today.  Obviously, it was left behind in the washing machine from yesterday's laundry, so someone is not going to hike back for their thongs! Nancy got her shirt back this morning, first thing. (Remember, I am blogging a day behind!)

How did we get through today? Like lots of signs on the Camino say, handwritten here and there - Salud y Fuerza.  Health and strength!  I have both in spades, but what Nancy is lacking in health, she makes up for in strength!  Kudos to you mon amie, for toughing out what turned out to be one of MY most memorable days on The Camino, as well as one of the longest, hardest and most rewarding. We are less than 26 km from Santiago.

Signing off with love and gratitude, just outside Salceda, Spain.

Day 33- September 23: dédie à ma chère défunte marraine Françoise Duguay Roy McGraw

parce que je l'adorais. J'ai pu la connaitre lorsque j'ai enseigné un an à Montréal.  Elle est avec moi chaque jour, chaque pas que je fais.  Je suis convaincue qu'elle aurait suivi mon périple avec ardeur.

Day 33- We put in a big day, in a push to get to Santiago by September 26th.  We did 24 km, hiking from Eixere to Melide. There was the loveliest church in Palas de Rei, where we lit a candle, and where we had our credential stamped. The priest told me it was the second oldest stamp on the Camino, dating over 200 years.

We laughed and talked all day, a little bit of pressure off, now that we know we ARE going to get there in time.  I have walked over 770 km, and I feel great. I feel energized.

We always seem to have a hard time finding our Albergue at the end of the day, but tonight we are at the far end of town, so tomorrow maybe we can sleep in a little, since we won't have to hike through the city.  

BTW - our friend Ju from the first week was last seen in Burgos, biting down on a big burger! We would love to see her in Santiago.

Julio of Reike foot therapy for Nancy, the night of her birthday, was last spotted hiking out of Ferreiros, accompanied by three young ice-cream licking chickadees. He was thrilled to see Nancy (she was waiting for me in an outdoor cafe).  He gave her a big boob flattening hug (Nancy's words!), kissed her on the mouth and said "Love you so much!"                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   I finish today with a quote by the restaurant owner in Melide, where Nancy and I had a wonderful pasta in a bar called Chaplin. I told him I had walked every step of the way. He said to me "Santiago es una cuidad muy grande pero mas grandes son los Peregrinos quien y van."  Santiago is a great city, but even greater are the pilgrims who make it to Santiago.

Bonne nuit ma tante France. Je sais que tu veilles sur moi, avec Papa.  Deux papillons sont venus me rendre visite pendant ma grande marche aujourd'hui.

Avec amour et reconnaissance de Melide, Espana.

Day 32 - September 22: dedicated to my boots! They are going to make it after all.

I didn't even have to duct tape them! 

Today was cloudy, with a little rain, but not enough to ruin what was a long day of hiking. We did over 26 km. I am so,so proud of Nancy. She is such a trooper. 

Yesterday, while hiking much of the day alone, I passed the 100 km marker. Apparently, these markers are not very old, but they still ARE NOT accurate. Quelle surprise! I don't believe any sign I see about how far we are from Santiago.

The WIFI in our albergues is so bad at times. Therefore, I am two days behind in my blogging.  I received a Snapchat from Joëlle saying "Hi Mom!" but I think it was from September 4th!

The owner at last night's Albergue booked our place for us tonight. She first told them we were Portuguese and our names were Isabella and ? What?  Gee whiz!! Is my Spanish SO bad that she thought I was speaking Portuguese? We had a good chuckle about that, Nancy and I.

Yesterday I was hiking through this beautiful, peaceful village all alone, during siesta time, with not a sound except the birds singing; I was enjoying the moment of total peace, when suddenly I heard this couple having a screaming match from inside their home!  They yelled at each other the entire time I hiked through this little pueblo.  Then my cell phone rang (a telemarketer no doubt!) because I had forgotten to put Airplane Mode back on.  How quickly one can be brought back to the reality of the 21st century, while immersed in the Camino!

Earlier, Nancy and I had taken an hour to have lunch in Gonzar.  Such a cute name for a non remarkable place. 

In Ventas, we had a cloudburst so Nancy pulled out her 4th poncho. I threw my out my one and only way back. I don't need one. I have an ARC'TERYX rain jacket. Another shameless plug!At one point, I mistook a dog for a fox. Nancy knows now that I can't recognize any animal except a cow. 

It was a very long day, and of course our Albergue was lovely, but at the far end of town and we had trouble finding it.

Nancy tied one on after drinking wine with me before and at dinner. She was so funny!   Nancy is always cold when we finish hiking for the day.  I have a picture of her hugging the radiator in our room.

I have never once napped after a day of hiking. I have too much energy. Besides, I wouldn't sleep that night if I did nap.

I finish this blog with what a young Peregrino said to me when I asked him where we were.  His answer?  "I try to never know where I am."

With love and much gratitude from Eirexe, Spain.

                                                                 

Dia 31- 21 septiembre: dedicated to the four Js.

The second person who made this Camino possible for me was my friend Jane. Jane and I were roomies in third year at UNB.  I wanted Vimy to have a home while I was gone; a family to love him. While he would have been fine in a kennel with my good friends Bob and Sue, I knew he had spent much of his first year in shelters and kennels. Jane, bless her heart, agreed to take him. Since I have been gone, Vimy has been loved and cared for NOT just by Jane, but her hubby John, the neighbour Jim, who walks Vimy three times a day, and by Jerry, their cat who I am sure tolerates Vimy. How blessed I am to have Jane, and her three Js, in my life.

I got the day off to a good start in Tricastela, by ringing the door bell, when I thought I was putting on the light in the hall at 6:30 in the morning, not ONCE, but twice. Poor Nancy is the one who got the dirty looks from the two Germans in the room next door, who were up earlier than they intended, because of my gaff!

Today I hiked over 33 km, in what was a lovely summer day.  I left Nancy behind after six km. It took me 9 hours to get from Triacastela to Ferreiros.

Today I hiked the most beautiful and various sendas (paths)of the Camino.  I will be posting pictures of only these natural paths that millions have trodden upon, in my first set for Day 31.

We are within 100 km of Santiago. There are supposedly many more Peregrinos on the Camino for these last 100 km, as they can still get their proof of hiking it, if they have their passports stamped twice each day. They must be hanging out in the bars and cafes because they are NOT on the Camino.  I saw two Peregrinos in almost four hours of hiking from Barbadelo to Ferreiros.

In the morning, there are lots on Peregrinos on the paths.  Weaving my speedy way through these pilgrims, I had advice from the Dutch Flirt of the Camino,  Kase, who kept trying to reassure me that I would make it to Santiago on time.  A middle-aged Spaniard,who was limping and looked tired, told me he had so much respect for me and my determination.  He wished me well, and said "Please come back and teach English!"

I had my first hamburger in Sarria.  The owner gave me an orange and didn't charge me.  We Peregrinos are recipients of these small acts of kindness all the time.

Here is a quick story of Colleen. Early in the morning we met this woman. We had heard OF her before we met her.  She is my age. She has buried two husbands.  She sold her house in Alabama to go nurse her sister who died of gastric cancer. She then took three months to  come to Spain, hiking all the way to Cruz de Fero. She slept in Foncebadon, the Druid like village I loved, and the next morning, was at the foot of the cross with her sister's ashes, nestled in a bed of feathers that friends had given her.  There she fulfilled the promise she had made to her sister.

The more I hike, the better I feel.  I have so much energy. I feel happier, freer, less encumbered with all of life's little and big burdens. I feel like I could just keep walking forever.  The paths welcome me, envelope me, in a cocoon of intimacy, peacefulness, and harmony with all of who have come before me. I really can't describe the feeling more than in that way.  These paths speak to my soul.

Bonne nuit ma chere amie Jane.  Give Vimy a hug for me please.

With love and gratitude from Ferrerios, Spain.

Jour 30 - 20 septembre: notre 30ième jour à marcher! A milestone in so many ways!

Ce jour est dédié à mon chien, cher Vimy.  I miss him so much.  He is my companion, with whom I share every day.  He is a Schnauzer and everyone loves Vimy. He is safe and loved while I do the Camino.

It is fitting that I dedicate this day to Vimy, as I have seen so many dogs on this journey. Every time I see one, I think of Vimy.  This morning Nancy and I left the fairy tale pueblo of O 'Cebreiro. Not far out of town, where there was a fork in the road, I stopped to talk to an old man, who looked so tired. He had his dog, his backpack and tent behind him on this type of a one wheeled cart and wanted to know which way to O'Cebreiro. Well, usually when you see someone going the wrong way, you figure it is because they forgot something - usually their walking sticks.  Turns out this man had done the Camino del Norte, on the Côte d'Azur of France, had been to Santiago, and was working his way back to France. He wasexhausted, and didn't know how much farther he could go. He was hoping a friend would pick him up soon. His dog was so cute!  I pointed him in the right direction, and after we resumed our walk, I said to Nancy "Did you get all that?" She repeated it back perfectly.  I said "Wow,  you are getting really good at understanding Spanish".  Then I realized I had conversed with the man in French, having detected his accent.  Nancy had  a good chuckle over that one! 

We still had to go up two mountains - Alto San Roque and Alto de Poio, before  making our way down to our destination  

of Triacastela for the night. The scenery is as gorgeous going down as coming up. 

I decide not to a take a Tylenol for muscular pain, and suck it  up. My little aches and pains are nothing compared to many other Peregrinos in obvious pain when walking.  It is so evident in their faces.

We take our time and decide to have lunch at a Café at the end of the village of Fonfria.  We support those entrepreneurs who advertise on the path, giving clear instructions as to where they are in the village. If you are NOT the first in the village, where most Peregrinos stop, you have to work twice as hard to get their business.

Three steps form the Café, there is this sweet faced lady, holding a plate of warm pancakes.  IF there is one thing I hate, it is pancakes.  I take one to be polite.  So does Nancy.  Then she asks for a "donativo", a donation.  So I give her 1 Euro. She cocks an eye at Nancy, as if to say what about her, so I give her another Euro. 

By the time I get to the Café, I am fuming.  An Aussie, one of a group of partiers, takes my proferred pancake. I protest against what this woman was doing, when another Aussie says "She is only trying to earn a living."  I protest "NO!"  What she is doing,  it is ...... and as I search for the the word, he says "Extortion!" He was right. That is what it was. Talking with the Café owner, he tells me he figures she makes 200 Euros a day, doing what she does.  Plus she doesn't pay taxes.  So beware of sweet faced CON WOMEN, on the Camino, mon oncle Eloi!

We tip the owner, who is young and hardworking.  When I ask why he doesn't ring the bell, he says he doesn't have one but runs behind the bar to clink two glasses together.  We share a good laugh!

We are going through, on our path, what amounts to cattle farms.  The Camino goes through the farm. There is cow shit all over the place. 

It is a long day but gorgeously warm and breezy.

Nancy is getting tired. We hear there may be no rooms left in Triacastela, so I decide to run on ahead the last three km.  I do it in 25 minutes, running flat out on the flat stretches and doing my funny duck waddle down the steep descents.

I pass Peter, a lawyer from Vermont, with whom we have chatted while hiking.  He looks very tired as well , so I ask him if he wants to bunk with Nancy and me, if we can get something.  He is in agreement.  To make a long story very short, we shared a four bed large room, in a private pension, and even though we had to walk 75 steps to get to our room, it was wunderbar!

While I was waiting for Peter and Nancy to meet me at our pension, I sat at the outdoor café, had a beer and because my water bottle had leaked in my back pack, I had hung up my socks to dry on the little fence that was the enclosure of the café.  Nancy and Peter arrive and join me. Who goes through town, right down the middle of the street, but a herd of cows!  My socks, which I hadn't washed in three days, attracted one cow, who came right over and slobbered all over my them.  So I had to wash them that night, darn it.  Nancy told that to everyone; she loved the disgusting dollop of cow drool hanging off my sock! 

I did try to get to mass that night. Some Columbian lady told me mass was at 7:00, but it was at 6:00, so I missed it.

I saw Martin, he of the no words and rags on his feet, that evening. I spoke to him in French, and he did his tipping of his hand from his heart.

We had a lovely supper with Joan and Robert, who is German and taller than Joan.  It is like being in the land of giants when we are with them.  Peter joined us.

Although I left Fidèle in the bar of our Pension for over three hours, no one touched him: I picked him up and brought him to supper with me, where he practically killed our sweet waiter, by hanging out in the aisle. 

Je vous dis bonne nuit avec amour et grande reconnaissance de Triacastela, Espagne. 

Jour 29 - 19 septembre

Day 29- is dedicated to Mark.  Wherever you area  and whatever you may be doing, I wish you well.

Today was a cold morning to wake up to- 6 degrees. I still refuse to buy gloves. The day was sunny and warm by early afternoon. Another hiker's dream day.

Our stay at this Albergue was so much fun. The hospitalero, Tymo, was more than helpful. He even put our laundry to wash and dry for us.  His dog Leo kept us entertained, doing quite the little dance for food.

Today we hiked up 700 metres, from Vega de Valcarce to the absolutely gorgeous little mountain pueblo of O'Cebreiro, population ,,,50!

It was a difficult climb, steep and rocky, but every stop to catch our breath, was rewarded with panoramic views sans pareil, one more beautiful than the next. The pictures I will post will attest to that.

We made ourselves a picnic lunch, and enjoyed that in a farmer's field, all for the princely sum of 4 Euros each.

Along the steep hike, we met up with sweetcheeks Shiva, she of the dimples in her upper cheeks. We hadn't seen her for three or four days, so there was a big round of hugs, chatting and picture taking . Shiva was hiking with our dormroom mate from last night, a Hungarian named Atila, who has been tenting since way back. He stays in an Albergue the odd time, to get a hot shower and wash his clothes. I remember seeing him doing a sun salutation one morning near Burgos, standing outside his tent, at the same time as I was doing mine on the path!

Jose and Sylvia, two Brazilians who were with our group of 40 the first night in Orisson, were sitting in a cafe when we finally summitted. They called out to me, recognizing me right away. Probably because I was the first one to stand up that night at dinner, and introduce myself. Someone has to go first at those things!

We also met up again with our San Franciscan giant, Joan, from Leon. We ended up sitting in a cafe drinking and talking, with people she had met along the way, people we had met, and even a new random from Malaysia who was sitting by herself and whom I persuaded to join us.  So there we were, Irish, American, Malaysian, Canadian, German, English,and Australian. There we sat for a few hours, resting our feet, drinking and eating, and sharing our Camino experiences. Then who shows up and joins us? One man from my birthday group of singing Germans. Their group of 12 belong to a choir, and every year one person drives the van, and the others walk.  They will do this until they finish the Camino.  Ulrich's kness are bothering him, so he stayed with the van. He is waiting for the other 10 to finish their hike up to O'Cebreiro. 

This village is magical! A 360 degree view of the mountains we have hiked, cobblestoned streets and gorgeous stone albergues.

We are told to go visit the church immediately because of a wedding taking place shortly.  We go in and listen to the singer practice. Tears stream down Joan's face.  What?  I only cry at weddings of people I KNOW, not strangers. 

I thank the organist and singer as we leave this exquisite building. There is a long pink carpet outside going from the gate of the church all the way to the altar, strewn with rose petals. I try not to step on it. I feel like an intruder.

There is an air of anticipation and excitement, as the wedding guests arrive and the Peregrinos watch and wait as well, for the arrival of the bride. Everyone mills around the courtyard.  I go down to the road that winds up, and am there waving with many other Peregrinos, as the bride and groom arrive at the head of a long motorcade.

At times I think, "Am I in some kind of Hollywood movie here?"

Tomorrow brings the reality of hiking DOWN those 700 metres we hiked up TODAY. For many, going down hurts a hell of a lot more than going up. 

I am fortunate in that while I may be stiff in the morning, nothing hurts. One Tylenol then and I am good to go. I have seen more limping, hobbling, bandaged, strapped, braced, and otherwise bedecked Peregrinos, with all kinds of medical attachments, that I am beginning to feel like SUPERMAN! I even saw two Italian cyclists who took a bad tumble near Viana. One is wearing a cervical collar, and has cracked ribs. Her partner has his left arm all bandaged up. Have they given up? Heck no, they are still at it - still doing the Camino their way.  It kind of makes me feel badly for calling all cyclists PITAS. Well....not really! 

Injuries are part of the Camino. Towns were built around the hospitals that were erected, to attend to the medical needs of these pilgrims. The town of Leon had 26 hospitals at one time, apparently. 

This was supposed to be a short blog. Again!  There was no WIFI high up on top of the world tonight, so I figured I could be short and sweet, in my writing that is.  That is not possible as there is JUST so much I want to share.

Nancy and I are so, so fortunate to be where we are... and only seven days away from Santiago de Compostella. We are now in the region of Galicia. We have left the region of Leon y Castilla behind.

Avec amour et reconnaissance dans le petit conte de fée qui est O'Cebreiro, Espagne.

Day 28 - September 18:dedicated to one of two people who were instrumental in my doing The Camino.

Jour 28- This day is dedicated to a very special someone. Without her, I could NOT have done the CAMINO. Period! Carole, mon amie, lent me the use of her lovely home (cottage) on the shores of the Baie de Chaleur, for six weeks.  She provided Vimy and I with the opportunity to have a home of our own for that time, while she was visiting family in England.  I had been a "couch visitor" for almost six weeks prior to arriving at Carole's.  I was able to use her place as my boot camp, to get in shape for the Camino. Vimy and I were so fortunate to have had a home for that time. Carole, you can never, ever know how grateful I am to you for your generosity.

We left Villafranca del Bierzo at 8:30, just Nancy and I. For once I read the guide book by our BFF, Mr. Briarly, very well.  I must give him credit for going into great detail about the various routes and hazards involved in today's hike.

We hiked up and down Alto Pradela, more than 300 metres up.  Most Peregrinos skirted the mountain altogether. There were many warnings about only the very fittest should be doing this hike.  Plus, there had been a fire recently.  We didn't know this, so ignorance is bliss. Peregrinos had been warned to stay away for that reason. We didn't know, so we weren't afraid. 

It was a glorious day, absolutely magnificent. We did our first sun salutation in as many days. We met only nine other Peregrinos the entire morning. One interesting woman was from Calgary. She was acting as guide, for her first paying client, and accompanying her, another woman from Calgary, on The Camino.  Funny thing is, the guide was out of shape, lagging behind the client, didn't speak Spanish, didn't know where her hiker client was and didn't really seem to be with the tour, so to speak.

Right away I thought "I could do a better job. I am fit, speak the language, and seem a lot more "debrouillarde" than her."  Hey, there is another possible job opportunity for me, a new business - Walk the Camino with Joanne!  Any future clients out there? 

Once we had reached the summit, we went through beautiful pine laden pathways.  I must admit that some of the hike up gave me vertigo - the path was very narrow. Even hugging the right, the left side was a mere foot or two away, and a sheer, sheer drop down the mountainside.

Chestnut orchards were along the top, for what seemed like miles. I was slightly ahead of Nancy when I heard a noise, that sounded like a motorcycle.  I came upon the owner of this huge place, weed whacking his chestnut orchard. We hadn't been near civilization for four hours.  Nancy could hear but not see him, and thought I was lying when I told her. It was a bit of an unusual sight!

At the bottom of the mountain, we had to hike back half a kilometre to the nearest pueblo, to have lunch. Well, that half a kilometre seemed like four. When we got there, I asked the owner if there was a taxi service in town.  I was so tired! I thought, "There is no way I am hiking back out of this village, to continue the Camino".  I was delirious. I think!  Me, who is so thoroughly ANAL, and is determined to walk every single step of this trek, actually thought I would take a taxi? Even though it wouldn't count, because I was retracing steps I had already taken. Well, a good lunch and a glass of Sangria later, out the door I went, to tell the taxi driver, Jose, who was still standing in the middle of street in the village chatting, that we were going to hike back out again. He just smiled and nodded. He must meet crazy (locas) Peregrinos every day!

We finished the second half of our day with a seven kilometre hike along the Rio Valcarce , which we crossed six times.  We had shade, some natural path, and it was a wonderful way to end a wonderful day.

I can't afford to be a princess anymore and sleep in these private hostals. Nancy is so good about humouring me, as we slum it in an Albergue Municipal tonight. There are 6 bunkbeds in a room, not 18, and it is a clean, functional hostel run by a wonderfully helpful man named Txema and his pooch Leo.  We even went to the supermarket, bought food and fixings to make our own soup and grilled cheese for supper. This was a our FIRST real homemade meal on The Camino. Maybe this slumming it isn't so bad!  We should last another day or two, and then run back to those private rooms. LOL

At some point I will try to blog about food for all you foodies out there (Numero 1, ma soeur Louise!), and about doing the Camino on a budget.  Howeve, not today. No time. It is lights out soon in the pueblo. 

I just want to add that the rain jacket that I borrowed from my daughter Joëlle, is absolutely incredible! I was bone dry after quite a few days of hiking in the rain.  My companions, with their big ponchos, were not. When Joëlle told me the exhorbitant amount of money she and Alec had paid for these Canadian made jackets, I thought "That is ridiculous!"  However, I have changed my mind. Here is my shameless plug for that company "Arc Teryx". They make superior rain gear, and if you can afford it, you should buy one of their stylish, yet oh so functional jackets.  I know for sure, that the next time I go on a big hiking trip, I am going to ask Joëlle if I can borrow her rain jacket again!  

Good night Carole! I hope Patsy forwards this posting to you. Would you Patsy, please? I am so lucky to have such good friends.

Tomorrow we hike another mountain, and stay overnight at the top. We are less than 200 km from Santiago de Compostella. 

We have ten days left to make it, God willing.

With love and gratitude from the tiny pueblo of Vega de Valcarce, not far from O'Cebreiro, Spain.

Day 27- September 17: dedicated to my favourite ...

son-in-law Alec and my favourite daughter-in-law Amanda (a piece of paper not needed), because you both have chosen to love one of my children. You have chosen Joëlle and Sean  to be your life partner. For that I am ever so grateful.  They both have someone to love and someone who loves them back. They are happy! When your children are happy, you as a parent, are happy too!

Day 27- Ponferrada is the absolute worst city to get out of-no flechas or conchillas to be found. We leave late- 8:00 because of a problem with my backpack that I sent on yesterday. Maybe in the excitement of having those half dressed Germans sing me Happy Birthday, I forget (or someone stole) the 7€ we pay for the service, out of the envelope attached to my big backpack. Either way, we sleep in a little

so I can make sure the darling owner of the hostal is up in time to give my two days payment to the pick-up guy. 

We have a lot of little pueblos (villages) to hike through. In one called Cumbrianos, there is a young man encouraging passing Peregrinos to go to the Cafe Gran Sol, just ahead. I ask him who is he doing this publicity for... his father, brother? He answers "For me!" He is the owner. I think "Yeah, right! You look all of 18! Turns out he is; his name is Ivan and he is 31! I chat up the waitress for this info and when I tell Nancy, she replies "Well, his being on a Scooter didn't help!" 

A cute chihuahua type dog follows us and sits ever so quietly by our table, waiting for a bite. He is so gentle, has no collar and looks thin. So of course, we give him some of our croissant. I ask the owner of El Cafe Gran Sol, baby faced Ivan, if the dog has an owner. He replies, with a smile "Yes! The dog just comes here EVERY morning, cause he knows the Peregrinos will feed him!" Suckered in by a cute pooch! 

We have gray skies again. I want to try to stay ahead of these big rain clouds. I am getting cranky; fourth day with no sun!

BTW- thank you all for the birthday wishes, especially the ones with personal messages. They MADE my day!

I have to mention that my credential, my pilgrim passport that I have to get stamped every day, is an unusual one. I bought it before leaving Canada, from the Association des Pèlerins Acadiens et Acadiennes du NB. Well, I get comments all the time from those who have to stamp it and record my passport, that MINE is the FIRST one they have ever seen before. Goes to show that not too many Acadians do the Camino, I guess. I LOVE being different!

By lunch we still have 14 km to go. I am tired of waiting for Baerbel and Nancy, who stop to smell the roses, (literally and figuratively) all the time. I like to get to destination, (today it is Villafranca Del Bierzo) and relax there. So I forge on ahead.

By the time I get to this pueblo, I realize our hostal is on the far end of town. There are no signs advertising it. I get tired of asking people where it is- no one seems to know. When I ask this sweet faced little Spanish grandmother, she is SO helpful that I burst into tears. She takes me by the hand, saying - "Trust in God.  Don't cry!  You speak Spanish so well.  My name is Amelia. Come, I will show you." Her kindness makes me cry all the harder and the sweet faced owners of the hostal, don't know what to make of me either, as I check in, still sobbing! 

The owner is 82 and looks ten years younger. He brings me to the bar, where I have to register. This is common when staying in hostales which are like boarding houses really, with your own room and bathroom. So cheap- 25€ per night and you aren't listening to the snores of 18 other people. I must admit though, that German men don't snore! I speak from experience, as I slept with over a dozen of them, the eve of my birthday! 

Señor Sweet Faced tells me that while he has never walked The Camino, he walks a lot every day.

A shower, and two glasses of the local red wine called Bierza, later, as I blog outside on the patio of a Cafe, with the sun deciding to shine brightly for more than two seconds, I know that all is right with my world, once again. Such is The Camino, which today, I did My Way!

Con mucho amor y agradecimientos de Villafranca Del Bierza, Espana.

PS: Señor Sweet Faced just came by to show me his birth certificate. I guess he thinks I don't believe him. I show him a picture of my 81 year old mother, who looks even better than him! I don't tell him that though!

Jour 26 - 16 septembre: jour très important car.....

le 16 septembre est dédié à celle qui m'a donnée la vie il y a 61 ans aujourd'hui! C'est ma chère Maman, la personne a qui je donne tout mon amour et ma reconnaisance. Je suis qui je suis, grâce à son dévouement, son instruction, son amour, sa sagesse, et sa bonté. Elle

m'a toujours appuyée, meme quand je lui ai fait de la peine.  A mother's love is the greatest love of all!  How blessed I have been in life, and continue to be... because I have a mother who loves and gives, always and forever, unconditionally. Gros bisous, gros câlins a 

ma chère Maman, Marguerite Morais Duguay.

The gift of life 61 years ago today, continues. This morning I came out of the bathroom at 6:30 am to be greeted by the enthusiastic singing of "Happy Birthday to you" by a dozen German men in various stages of dress, as well as Nancy, Lucie, and Baerbel. I think that well known chorus was heard all over the Albergue, and not just in our dormitory of 18 beds. As it turns out, one of those dozen Germans was also celebrating a birthday, Hermann, so again, in the Camino way, the moment was shared. Who arranged all this while I was in the bathroom? Nancy! She who doesn't speak German, but was able to gesticulate enough that one man said "So you want we sing the song?" Today is only half over, and I have already received so many beautiful gifts - not the kind you hold in your hand, but the ones you hold in your heart, forever! I will share them tomorrow, as I post a few pictures from today, take a break from the dreary, rainy weather, and thank God, St. Jacques de Compostelle, all other higher and divine beings, and one other very important person, for the gift of life!

Counting my blessings from Ponferrada, Spain.

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Jour 25 - 15 septembre - dedicated to....

my Uncle Charlie, just because I love him and he is a peach! Everyone should be lucky enough to have an Uncle Charlie!

We leave Rabanal, another village I fell in love with, in a steady downpour of rain, at 7:00 am. It is our first real rainy day.

We are joined by a Kiwi, a lovely lady from New Zealand, who, because of the mist, is leery of hiking alone.  Her name is Judith.

She joins us in the Druid like village of Foncebadon.

We chat. She has traveled widely and expresses a desire to visit Newfoundland someday, because of a book she read. She can't remember the name, and when I say was it "Colony of Unrequited Dreams", by Wayne Johnson (Are you reading this, CVF?), she is delighted!  Canadian authors travel widely as well, it seems. Marvelous book by the way!

By 10 am we have climbed 300 metres to Cruz de Fero- one of the most iconic landmarks along the Camino. 

I leave two rocks, one representing my past, and one representing the future. The one from my past came all the way with me from the Baie de Chaleur, and the other I picked up on the Camino, on the way to Rabanal.

Lucie, our Belgian friend, leaves behind a rock that her 57 year old friend painted and gave to Lucie, before she herself was euthanized at her request, due to early onset dementia. How sad for her friend, and yet how courageous, I feel, though I know not all would agree. 

People deposit their rocks all around the cross. When you first look at it you think, "How tawdry!" All these items, but not just rocks. However, those items hold strong sentimental value to those who left them behind, and we must remember that. Whether the rock is symbolic of hope, remorse, sin, forgiveness, goodbye, or love... they are ALL significant.

This was a heartfelt moment for all of us. There were tears and hugs all around.

There continues to be buckets of rain, heavy at times, light drizzle at other times.  

We only do 18 km today, but we hiked up not only Cruz de Fero, but also Alto Altar.  Coming down was steep and treacherous, with the rain having left mud and rivulets everywhere.

The scenery would have been spectacular, some of the best on the Camino, were it not for the rain, but still many FA moments nevertheless.

I let the pictures for Day 25, speak for themselves, as I have already posted them.

We are happy, Nancy, Baerbel, Lucie and I, to be safe and warm by early afternoon, in the dormitory of an Albergue, while the downpour continues outside. 

The others are napping. I am doing what I love, sharing my Camino with those of you who tell me that my posts are "leur vitamine du Jour", the first thing they read each day, and which they look forward to reading on a daily basis.  

C'est le partage, tout simplement. Everything is better shared, and that too, is The Camino Way.

By the way:

J'ai perdu le tissu pour nettoyer mes lunettes, encore une fois. Hier, Nancy en a trouvé un près de la clôture des croix, entre des roches. Elle l'a lavé et me l'a présenté dans notre chambre hier soir, en surprise. Que j'étais contente. That is so Nancy, always thinking of others.

BTW, I lost it at Cruz de Fero!

Nancy is on her third poncho, in two days. I am still wearing the one Linda gave that she told me was twenty years old. 

One last BTW:

I was trying to get onto my top bunk bed last night. There was no ladder. The closest chair had an apparatus for drying wet clothes, attached to it and attached to a second chair, so I dared not move either. A behemoth of a man, German, barely missing a stride on his way back from the bathroom, saw my predicament, threw me over his shoulder like a fireman and plopped me onto my bunk!   Just like that! Then he kept going!

Bonne fête à  mon neveu Jesse. Gros bisous!

Avec amour et reconnaissance de Acebo, Espagne.