I was about to embark on a two and a half day hike in the Himalayan mountains. We knew our flight from Kathmandu, back to Bangkok, had been cancelled. We had been advised that there was nothing to be done until we got back to Kathmandu. Rose and I were determined to do our trek... the reason we had come all the way over here in the first place. Mind you, we were in the wrong country, with a very much shortened agenda, because Bhutan had closed its border forty -eight hours before our arrival there, making Nepal, by default, the next country on our list to visit. We didn't know at the time, that Vietnam would close its borders that day, and thus leave us without any place to go... but home.
Although I have journaled on FB and posted videos about those two and half days, March 16, 17 and 18th, I have but given you a glimpse of my days there.
With this blog, I want to share an experience I had in the mountains, that seared my soul and left me shaken and humbled. We had started out early on our only full day of hiking, straight up the mountain, 1500 feet if I remember correctly. Not a really big deal but it was a steady, upward trek. Rose and Kaji had gone on ahead. Suddenly, we saw two brightly garbed women just ahead of us, coming DOWN the mountain.
One woman was quite elderly, although probably younger than me. Life is INCREDIBLY hard for these mountain people of Nepal. I noticed she had a sling on her back, which she carried with a strap across her forehead, much like MB, with his porter's basket.
Mekh struck up a conversation right away. I observed them and was instantly taken aback by the fact that they were both wearing "FLIP FLOPS!" Yes, thongs, gougounes, whatever you want to call them. The younger one was smiling graciously, but the older lady was quite serious.
All of sudden, the latter removed her sling, and inside was a teeny, tiny newborn baby girl! OMG! I didn't know what to think. I was GOBSMACKED!! I had wanted to take a picture of them in their beautiful garb, as they approached us, but I am always so conscious of violating anyone's privacy, so I hadn't. I didn't know what was in the sling. Rose, up ahead, had had a better presence of mind. These are her pictures that I am sharing. She had met them earlier. My only picture is the spot where we left them, Mekh and I going up, and they continuing their downward trek.
I swear, I was just totally useless and stood there like a fool! Rose told me later than her guide had suggested she give them money, if she could, (which she did) as they had very little. Mekh never said anything to me, and I .... will live with that regret the rest of my life, that I did not offer anything. Money they would have needed for food, possibly for lodging, for the doctor, for medication, for the bus ride... the list goes on an on.
COVID-19 is NOT a reality to be feared in Nepal! Daily life is THE fear, the struggle to survive on the barest of life's necessities, for so many Nepalese. Yet they smile, laugh, talk, are generous, positive, loving and kind. They will be devastated by the Covid-19 virus, but not by the disease itself. There will be no more tourists and no tourists means no jobs, so no money. No jobs means that 5.5 miliion young Nepalese who are foreign workers working in countries like India, will NOT be sending much needed money home to their families in Nepal. Money that is needed for basic survival, and maybe the chance to get ahead a tiny bit.
Mekh's newborn daughter was very sick at a few weeks of age. He had the equivalent of 400$ US put away for a rainy day, and it was all taken up for her care. He is grateful that she is fine, and says he will deal with the hardships that are coming, due to no tourism, as best he can.
As I am sure this new mother and her mother-in-law will, with grace and humility, resilience and strength. Will we, here in North America, be able to do the same?
NB: Je partage les beaux mots de ma cousine Ginette, qui connait aussi le peuple népalais. Elle avait raison.
"Tu n’oublieras jamais ces visages qui resteront dans la mémoire de ton coeur! Je t’avais prévenue, chère cousine, un peuple heureux, un peuple touchant, un peuple résilient qui nous touche à tout jamais!"
