Day 38 - September 28: dedicated to an old, supportive friend who is celebrating a birthday today...

the same age I celebrated 12 days ago. Happy Birthday CVF!  I hope it is a special day for you and that there will be a Camino in your future.  I await your "proposal" when I get home to Canada!

On the 37th day, Nancy and Joanne rested..... NOT! We did sleep in until 8:30.  Incroyable!  We didn't have to put our boots on, but we did walk. We went sightseeing, shopping and generally did the turista thing.  Santiago is a beautiful city. Our little choochoo train tour near sunset, was wonderful.  I understood about 80% of what the bilingual tour guide said in Spanish, and 30% of what she said in ENGLISH.  Honest!

Nancy spent so much time helping this Italian named Jack (what Italian is called Jack?) back on the terrace of our pension, with his damn phone.  It was just too comical listening to him chatter on in Italian about his problems, have him ask Nancy "Capische?" and Nancy answer "NO!" Nancy has yet to meet someone she doesn't want to help.  She was ever so patient, and persisted in helping him until she had solved some of his problems, like a phone full of junk taking up all his memory.  He even came looking for her, when she had gone for a nap, but I told him nicely, when he started exclaiming that he couldn't catch Wifi, and kept moving his chair around the terrace, to "Sientate y tranquilo", a mix of Italian and Spanish I think.  He wasn't getting any sympathy or help from me.  LOL

Today was extra special. We attended the English mass in a small chapel in the Cathedral.  There were a lot of Irish there. The priest Father Joe was from County Cork, Ireland, and was officiating.  We were around 100 people.  I volunteered to do the first reading, seeing as I am so shy!  At the beginning of Mass, we all introduced ourselves and said where we were from, and what we had done on the Camino.  The communion hymns were " Here I am Lord" and "The Psalm from St. Francis of Assisi."  Well, that's when I started crying again. A young American whom I had met the night before, put a comforting hand on my shoulder.

I think I am beginning to realize that my Camino is over, and I don't want it to be over.  I just want to put my backpack back on, get Vimy over here on the next flight, pick up my stick and keep hiking, to Finisterre, and then what?  I have to go home, but right now it is with a heavy heart.

Let me leave you with a few more thoughts on my Camino. Did I tell you about the American woman
who arrived at Rabanal, near the Cruz de Fero, not feeling well? At the pharmacy, they gave her some pills and sent her on her way.  She signed in at the Albergue, where the volunteer at reception, the hospitalero, was a physician from London, England. He told she was a sick woman, and sent her in a taxi, to Astorga, the town with the nearest major hospital. She was having a heart attack.  She survived, and this year, three years later, came back to that same Albergue, where the volunteer was once again there, to thank him personally for saving her life. An awesome and true story!

I am humbled by how many compliments and notes of congratulations I have received. I feel totally undeserving. I may be determined and stubborn, but I am NOT courageous.  True courage is shown every day on the Camino, by paraplegiacs being wheeled by a loving family member; by a mother and her sons, donkey and dog, tenting; by a son leading his blind father, for the second year in a row; by Birgit who stomped around our albergue one night, on the stumps of her knees, radiating life and vitality, in spite of physical limitations that we would all find debilitating. THOSE are courageous people and there are thousands of them out there.

We start winging our way home to New Brunswick and Michigan tonight, starting with a flight to Madrid.

I hope to blog back in Canada on a few subjects like the food in Spain; how to budget on the Camino; as well as wrap up a few stories I did not have time to tell.  I will be posting today's pictures. As well, I hope to do a reflective piece on what the Camino has meant to me.  This was my personal diary, and not just a blog.  I was more than happy to share my journey with all of you, from old, dear friends, to people I didn't know at all, to my Grade 7 teacher, to friends of friends, and of course, to my family and extended family.  Many of you kept me going, with your ongoing show of support, especially on those difficult days when  I thought I had reached the end of my rope.  How blessed I have been in my life and how I continue to be blesssed!

Signing off for the last time from Santiago de Compostella, Spain, on a sunny Monday, with love, gratitude, and humility.

Joanne

THE DAY - September 26, 2015

The was the final day in what has been the journey of a lifetime for me. A journey which I shared with my old friend Nancy. It has been a privilege.

I am humbled and ever so grateful for your generous, kind, encouraging and all too laudatory comments, as I near the end of my pilgrimage.   Thank you, merci, gracias, obrigado, grazie, danke schön!

Nancy and I left at 8:15 -  our last of everything; putting on our boots and grabbing our walking sticks.  It was our last roadside stop for a second café before getting into Santiago. It was our last sunrise, our last sun saluation, our last hill to climb, our last times to say Buen Camino... I could go on and on.

We left with our new friend, 80 year old Barb, but we ate her dust. She was gone by midmorning.

We walked slowly, reminiscing and reliving our last 35 days.

The number of pilgrims increased as we approached Santiago, on a PERFECT day.  What transpired was magical, because we had no idea whether we would make it into Santiago in time for the high mass at noon.  We did! We walked, walked, walked, and walked right up the steps into the Cathedral at 11:55.

There were no seats, but I quickly found a spot in the centre where I could see the nun speaking to the congregation.  I had my stick in hand, my backpack on, and I was a true Peregrino, because I smelled!  (Walking 10 km on a humid morning will do it!)

It was standing room only.  The nun stopped speaking, doors opened to my left, and a procession of eight priests passed right in front of me. I could have touched their robes.  I turned, and for an hour stood there, listening to the mass said in Spanish, and responding when I could be fast enough to recognize where we were, in English or in French.  Sometimes I leaned my head and hands on my stick.  I listened and understood much of what the priest said, and the words of a young Syrian woman, who did what we call in French, a "témoinage". Elle venait de finir son Compostelle, comme nous.  Elle nous a demandé de prier et d'aider les Chrétiens dans le monde, qui sont victimes de torture, et sont tués, sont massacrés, comme le sont les Chrétiens dans son pays de Syrie.  Elle a parlé de sa famille, de son frère qu'elle n'a pas vu depuis six mois. Elle ne sait pas s'il est vivant.  Ses grandsparents sont morts dans cette guerre en Syrie. The priest's sermon was in response to her testimonial.

At the end of the mass, the priest blessed all the pilgrims.  He asked us to go in peace and practice peace. It was only when the procession passed in front of me again, that I felt the tears run down my cheeks. Don't ask me why. Je n'ai aucune idée.  Perhaps I had found comfort and solace, after this long journey, in the rituals and traditions of mass in the Catholic Church.  These traditions and rituals are universal. They transcend all boundaries of language and culture.

I felt a lightness as we descended the steps of this beautiful Cathedral.  We took a few pictures, stood in line for an hour and a half to get our "Credencial" validated. I paid 5 Euros, made a donation and received my two certificates, one attesting to my being a real Peregrina, and the other attesting to the distance I walked.

We had a very late lunch in the Plaza Quintana right outside the Cathedral, meeting up again with our German friend Barbel from Day 1. How apropos! We saw other Peregrinos we had met along the way. We stopped to hug, congratulate each other and just be genuinely happy and grateful for this journey, this "grand périple".

There is always, always so much more that I want to write. However, that is enough for today. In a day or two I will write a reflective piece.

I leave you with this quote, - a spiritual maxim.

"I am not a human being on a spiritual journey.
I am a spiritual being on a human journey.

This journey has ended for me today, but another has begun.

With love and infinite gratitude from Santiago de Compostella, Spain.

Marie Marjolaine Joanne Duguay

Day 35- September 25: The last and the most important dedication is to ...

my children Sean and Joëlle. The day that Sean was placed in my arms, so calm and sweetly sleeping, and the day that Joëlle was placed in my arms, red faced and howling, were THE best days of my life. You both have given me the gift and the joys of motherhood. I can think of no greater blessing in my life than to have been your mother. Mes chers enfants, je vous aime et je suis fière de vous deux. A little bit of me will live on in you. I am blessed!

Nancy and I will no longer be Peregrino virgins as of tomorrow. We hiked a paltry 16 km today before calling it quits for the day. That is the shortest day I have hiked since August 22nd. Tomorrow we have less than 10 km to go.

Each journey begins with single step and my first step was taken 35 days ago today. I will have hiked every step of the way of the Camino Frances, more than 820 km. I don't know how I feel. Maybe I will know tomorrow?

My thoughts and prayers tonight are also with my dear friend Jane; her father Ian passed away yesterday.

Signing off for the last time before I complete my journey - de mon grand périple, de mi Camino- always, toujours y siempre, with love and infinite gratitude, from Lavacolla, Spain.

Joanne

Day 34- September 24: dedicated to my walking stick, mon bâton, mi baston. Il s'appelle Fidèle.

Fidèle m'a suit partout. Je l'ai oublié ici et là, mais il ne m'en a jamais voulu pour ça.  Il m'a appuyé, était toujours à la main, ou dans une main, chaque jour et chaque pas que j'ai fait.  J'ai du remplacer les douilles trois fois, mais la dernière que j'ai posée, juste avant Léon, il porte toujours.  Il a reçu énormément de compliments, mon beau Fidèle.  J'ai dit merci pour lui.  Merci encore une fois mon oncle Jean, du beau cadeau.  Je t'aime ben gros!!!

Today, Day 34, started with me almost getting killed after breakfast.  I was ahead of Nancy, leaving Melida. At the crosswalk, the car stopped and I started to cross. WELL, they guy behind him didn't want to wait.  He pulled out, just as I was clearing that car, and almost hit me. He had to break, I had to swerve out of the way, with him stopping not two feet away from me. Scared? You bet! However, I was more worried about Nancy behind me who hadn't seen any of this, so after I finished crossing, I waited for her, and YELLED at her to be careful crossing.  Scared her half to death.  I honestly think this was a hazard of being SHORT! He didn't see me crossing and figured the car ahead of him had stopped for another reason, I am guessing.  Gee whiz! I would have hated to get hurt or killed less than 50 km from Santiago!

Later on that morning, I met a remarkable Frenchman named Serge.  We had already heard about him on The Way.  As soon as I saw him, I went up to him and in three languages said "May I shake your hand?" You see, he was picking up garbage with a stick and putting it into a big garbage bag.  He answered me in French and we had a lovely conversation.  He has done the Camino 28 times, leaving from Paris (where he is from), from Rome, and other points and various Camino departures in Portugal.  Il m'a dit "La terre est sacrée. Il faut la respecter, car en fin de compte, elle nous donne tout, n'est-ce pas?   That is why he does the Camino, and every time he does it, he picks up garbage.  I find Peregrinos are pretty good about keeping the sendas clear of their garbage, in spite of the fact that until recently, I have seen very few garbage cans.  When I told him I was Acadian, not Québecoise, he said "Allez-vous m'engueuler?"  "Are you going to chew me out?"  I think we Acadians can be a little indignant about being told, "Oh, French Canada?  You are from Québec."  It IS an assumption on The Camino.

That being said, speaking three languages, (two well and one badly) has been so enriching for me.  I gave a history lesson yesterday to two Frenchman, on the Deportation of the Acadians in 1755.  All they really wanted to hear about were the New England Patriots! Like I give a darn about a football team!  LOL

Today was another gorgeous day, with blue skies, birds chirping, and the promise of a warm day. We ended up finding that out, because we hiked for over 9 hours, over 27 km.  We hadn't intended doing that but our BFF, the author of our guide, screwed up major in the calculations of the distance between villages, and we ended up hiking 5 km more than we intended, to get to our Albergue.  It REALLY was a long, hard day.

Those PITAS, the cyclists, are still whizzing by us, some at breakneck speed, downhill and with no warning.  Sometimes I think to myself that I will stick out Fidèle and clothesline one of them, or stick out Fidèle and trip one of them, because they drive me crazy. They are my biggest peeve on the Camino. They have no business being here. True Pilgrims DO NOT use a machine to do The Way of St. James, as it is called in English.

The closer we get to Santiago, the more we see those BIG tour buses. More PITAS!

There are lots of Germans here, and they are SO tall!  Boomers by far, the 50 plus range, are who you see the most on the Camino.  I have met people from over 35 different countries.  Aren't I fortunate?

Since yesterday, we have only seen one Peregrino from way back,  Roberto of the "spaghetti a la carbonara" evening, back in Granon.  Everyone we see is new - just doing the last 100 km to Santiago.

It took us nine hours, plus sheer guts and determination to find our Albergue, because it was off the beaten path.  I have taken to buying a beer to go when we are 2-3 km from destination, especially on warm days. It perks me up for that last stretch.  Our Albergue is a real oasis.  We get there at six, time to indulge and have them do our laundry, while we shower, post a few pics and enjoy an extravagant supper of 1 kg. of grilled T-bone steak.  We have done over 27 km, we figure, and we deserve it, by golly!

It is near 10.  People are going to bed. I am posting a few pictures, when Nancy comes back out from our delightful room, and says "Can you please ask them where my "flecha" T-shirt is? We got our laundry back and it is missing.  Plus, I don't think these belong to you or me!" From behind her back she whips out the smallest black pair of thongs I have EVER seen. I start to laugh right away. I go into the nearly deserted bar, where the owner's daughter is cleaning up and explain our laundry problem. We start to laugh about it. Her mother comes in, and don't they start to throw the thong back and forth between each other.  I am just rolling in the aisle with laughter.  Then at one point, they start to pretend it is a slingshot.  I can barely stand it, I am laughing SO hard my stomach still hurts today.  Obviously, it was left behind in the washing machine from yesterday's laundry, so someone is not going to hike back for their thongs! Nancy got her shirt back this morning, first thing. (Remember, I am blogging a day behind!)

How did we get through today? Like lots of signs on the Camino say, handwritten here and there - Salud y Fuerza.  Health and strength!  I have both in spades, but what Nancy is lacking in health, she makes up for in strength!  Kudos to you mon amie, for toughing out what turned out to be one of MY most memorable days on The Camino, as well as one of the longest, hardest and most rewarding. We are less than 26 km from Santiago.

Signing off with love and gratitude, just outside Salceda, Spain.

Day 33- September 23: dédie à ma chère défunte marraine Françoise Duguay Roy McGraw

parce que je l'adorais. J'ai pu la connaitre lorsque j'ai enseigné un an à Montréal.  Elle est avec moi chaque jour, chaque pas que je fais.  Je suis convaincue qu'elle aurait suivi mon périple avec ardeur.

Day 33- We put in a big day, in a push to get to Santiago by September 26th.  We did 24 km, hiking from Eixere to Melide. There was the loveliest church in Palas de Rei, where we lit a candle, and where we had our credential stamped. The priest told me it was the second oldest stamp on the Camino, dating over 200 years.

We laughed and talked all day, a little bit of pressure off, now that we know we ARE going to get there in time.  I have walked over 770 km, and I feel great. I feel energized.

We always seem to have a hard time finding our Albergue at the end of the day, but tonight we are at the far end of town, so tomorrow maybe we can sleep in a little, since we won't have to hike through the city.  

BTW - our friend Ju from the first week was last seen in Burgos, biting down on a big burger! We would love to see her in Santiago.

Julio of Reike foot therapy for Nancy, the night of her birthday, was last spotted hiking out of Ferreiros, accompanied by three young ice-cream licking chickadees. He was thrilled to see Nancy (she was waiting for me in an outdoor cafe).  He gave her a big boob flattening hug (Nancy's words!), kissed her on the mouth and said "Love you so much!"                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   I finish today with a quote by the restaurant owner in Melide, where Nancy and I had a wonderful pasta in a bar called Chaplin. I told him I had walked every step of the way. He said to me "Santiago es una cuidad muy grande pero mas grandes son los Peregrinos quien y van."  Santiago is a great city, but even greater are the pilgrims who make it to Santiago.

Bonne nuit ma tante France. Je sais que tu veilles sur moi, avec Papa.  Deux papillons sont venus me rendre visite pendant ma grande marche aujourd'hui.

Avec amour et reconnaissance de Melide, Espana.

Day 32 - September 22: dedicated to my boots! They are going to make it after all.

I didn't even have to duct tape them! 

Today was cloudy, with a little rain, but not enough to ruin what was a long day of hiking. We did over 26 km. I am so,so proud of Nancy. She is such a trooper. 

Yesterday, while hiking much of the day alone, I passed the 100 km marker. Apparently, these markers are not very old, but they still ARE NOT accurate. Quelle surprise! I don't believe any sign I see about how far we are from Santiago.

The WIFI in our albergues is so bad at times. Therefore, I am two days behind in my blogging.  I received a Snapchat from Joëlle saying "Hi Mom!" but I think it was from September 4th!

The owner at last night's Albergue booked our place for us tonight. She first told them we were Portuguese and our names were Isabella and ? What?  Gee whiz!! Is my Spanish SO bad that she thought I was speaking Portuguese? We had a good chuckle about that, Nancy and I.

Yesterday I was hiking through this beautiful, peaceful village all alone, during siesta time, with not a sound except the birds singing; I was enjoying the moment of total peace, when suddenly I heard this couple having a screaming match from inside their home!  They yelled at each other the entire time I hiked through this little pueblo.  Then my cell phone rang (a telemarketer no doubt!) because I had forgotten to put Airplane Mode back on.  How quickly one can be brought back to the reality of the 21st century, while immersed in the Camino!

Earlier, Nancy and I had taken an hour to have lunch in Gonzar.  Such a cute name for a non remarkable place. 

In Ventas, we had a cloudburst so Nancy pulled out her 4th poncho. I threw my out my one and only way back. I don't need one. I have an ARC'TERYX rain jacket. Another shameless plug!At one point, I mistook a dog for a fox. Nancy knows now that I can't recognize any animal except a cow. 

It was a very long day, and of course our Albergue was lovely, but at the far end of town and we had trouble finding it.

Nancy tied one on after drinking wine with me before and at dinner. She was so funny!   Nancy is always cold when we finish hiking for the day.  I have a picture of her hugging the radiator in our room.

I have never once napped after a day of hiking. I have too much energy. Besides, I wouldn't sleep that night if I did nap.

I finish this blog with what a young Peregrino said to me when I asked him where we were.  His answer?  "I try to never know where I am."

With love and much gratitude from Eirexe, Spain.

                                                                 

Dia 31- 21 septiembre: dedicated to the four Js.

The second person who made this Camino possible for me was my friend Jane. Jane and I were roomies in third year at UNB.  I wanted Vimy to have a home while I was gone; a family to love him. While he would have been fine in a kennel with my good friends Bob and Sue, I knew he had spent much of his first year in shelters and kennels. Jane, bless her heart, agreed to take him. Since I have been gone, Vimy has been loved and cared for NOT just by Jane, but her hubby John, the neighbour Jim, who walks Vimy three times a day, and by Jerry, their cat who I am sure tolerates Vimy. How blessed I am to have Jane, and her three Js, in my life.

I got the day off to a good start in Tricastela, by ringing the door bell, when I thought I was putting on the light in the hall at 6:30 in the morning, not ONCE, but twice. Poor Nancy is the one who got the dirty looks from the two Germans in the room next door, who were up earlier than they intended, because of my gaff!

Today I hiked over 33 km, in what was a lovely summer day.  I left Nancy behind after six km. It took me 9 hours to get from Triacastela to Ferreiros.

Today I hiked the most beautiful and various sendas (paths)of the Camino.  I will be posting pictures of only these natural paths that millions have trodden upon, in my first set for Day 31.

We are within 100 km of Santiago. There are supposedly many more Peregrinos on the Camino for these last 100 km, as they can still get their proof of hiking it, if they have their passports stamped twice each day. They must be hanging out in the bars and cafes because they are NOT on the Camino.  I saw two Peregrinos in almost four hours of hiking from Barbadelo to Ferreiros.

In the morning, there are lots on Peregrinos on the paths.  Weaving my speedy way through these pilgrims, I had advice from the Dutch Flirt of the Camino,  Kase, who kept trying to reassure me that I would make it to Santiago on time.  A middle-aged Spaniard,who was limping and looked tired, told me he had so much respect for me and my determination.  He wished me well, and said "Please come back and teach English!"

I had my first hamburger in Sarria.  The owner gave me an orange and didn't charge me.  We Peregrinos are recipients of these small acts of kindness all the time.

Here is a quick story of Colleen. Early in the morning we met this woman. We had heard OF her before we met her.  She is my age. She has buried two husbands.  She sold her house in Alabama to go nurse her sister who died of gastric cancer. She then took three months to  come to Spain, hiking all the way to Cruz de Fero. She slept in Foncebadon, the Druid like village I loved, and the next morning, was at the foot of the cross with her sister's ashes, nestled in a bed of feathers that friends had given her.  There she fulfilled the promise she had made to her sister.

The more I hike, the better I feel.  I have so much energy. I feel happier, freer, less encumbered with all of life's little and big burdens. I feel like I could just keep walking forever.  The paths welcome me, envelope me, in a cocoon of intimacy, peacefulness, and harmony with all of who have come before me. I really can't describe the feeling more than in that way.  These paths speak to my soul.

Bonne nuit ma chere amie Jane.  Give Vimy a hug for me please.

With love and gratitude from Ferrerios, Spain.