Estrella to Los Arcos- hiked 21.5 km in 30 plus degree heat. By five o'clock it was 35 degrees but we were enjoying ourselves at the town plaza- eating and drinking with our fellow peregrinos as they arrived. My day is dedicated to my little brother Pierre, who is a good, tall, fit 50 year old father, who reminds me of the men I have met on the Camino - men like him. Martin from Germany, Jordan from Holland, Joel from Calgary, Richard from Ireland, Martin from France, the list goes on!
We met up again with Sari and Katherina from Day 1 in Orisson- our Swedish/Dutch cum Aruba gay couple whom we have connected with on all levels. K has the biggest dimples, laughs and smiles all the time. Sari is a smart and sassy businesswoman who has a consulting business with offices all over Europe. We have the most fun with them!
Ju ditched us for a 30 year old male named Sebastien from Geneva. She wanted to tell her hubby back in San Francisco that she had "slept" with a 30 year old. Outrageous Ju!
I walk very fast for a short person- so let me share what I have been called recently, and I quote. Powerhouse, ball of fire, Speedy Gonzales, and about my personality, cheeky and did you know I am considered a Hobbit? That comes from Sari, who is 5 ft 10, we think.
One Québécois whom I walked with a bit, said I obviously was fit, because my one calf was bigger than his two together. Was that a compliment?
I have only fallen once on the Camino. Minor scrapes and bruises. A cyclist passed me and I looked up at his "tush" , no I mean the flag on the back of his bike, to see if I could identify his country, and I hit the dirt! There are a lot of mid-life crisis 40 year old Italian/Portuguese men cycling the Camino, and they are mostly courteous. There is the odd one who likes to see how close he can come to taking out a Peregrino (Pilgrim). Poor Kevin from England was almost a victim. I told the cyclist he was an "idiota.
Buenas noches querido hermano!
Love and gratitude from where I am, Los Arcos, Spain.
Jour 6 - 27 août: dedicated to this person because of what happened before sunrise...
We left Puente la Reina at 6;30 am. It was still dark, me in the lead. Suddenly Ju yells for me to return because someone is telling her we are going the wrong way. She doesn't understand more than that. The man, who has pulled to the side in a roundabout,now pulls his car right up onto the roundabout centre island. To make along story somewhat short, I listen and tell him we will turn around. We can't see a thing because it is pitch black. We only have our headlights. He jumps back in his car, goes back from where he came, parks, puts on his flashers, and waits for us. God bless this angel that St. Jacques has sent us. We could have stumbled around and been lost for a while, which brings me back to today's dedication - which is for my middle brother Jean-Marc. This is something he would never hesitate to do, help people, and especially those like us who didn't know we needed help. My thoughts were with this angel and Jean-Marc, during Day 6.
We hiked 22.4 km in 7.5 hours. I was alone much of the day, which was good. It tested my mettle, to be alone. Our hotel type accommodation that night was great. We three wanted our own space. No Symphony of Snores during the night. Only we found out Genghis Khan worked there and he was just a nasty, rude man. It was the first time I cried since I left Canada. He wouldn't help me so I just went back to our room and figured out a solution to our problem - getting our big backpacks to our next night's lodging - all by myself. I don't have fond memrories of Estella, but I did get my first good night's sleep. Plus we had a fan. The weather is getting hotter and hotter. We have to stop earlier each day.
Ju will be leaving us soon, as she is on a tighter schedule. Here are a few jewels from Ju and I quote without quotation marks:
Why do you have to pick the hotel at the farthest end of town, every time? Where is my bedbug magnifying detector? You should write a book, Joanne, entitled, " The EffinThings They Don't Tell You Aboout The Camino" like all the men walk around with their boys hanging out. (She used another word, not so nice!) All Spanish towns look the same. I only hang around with you guys because you speak English. (Never mind French and Spanish as well!) I had to take anger management classes cause I stabbed my boyfriend with a knife. Well, he put his hand in front of the knife! Last but not least - there are four types of people who do the Camino:
the young and the restless; the old and the useless; the fat and the hopeless; and the stupid and fearless!
There - I am done with Ju stories. We have had so much fun with her. They say the first week is the hardest? Well, she has made our hearts lighter by making us laugh. God bless her!
On a more solemn note, there are many memorials on the Camino. People have died,and their families have set up these simple crosses, as memorials. Many were in the Pyrenees- because of weather conditions and hazardous passes. One simple cross just said - Fin del Camino,the name and the year. How sad! Another had the same, but also a picture. He was a young Belgian man in his forties, and he died after climbing a long, but not steep hill out of the town of Cizur Menor. It makes me stop, think and reflect upon my own physical fitness. There are many, many people struggling on this journey. I have seen blisters that look like wounds.
We are happy, healthy and reasonably fit, Nancy and I.
Bonne nuit - my dear brother Jean-Marc, another good Samaritain on earth. Papa would be proud of the good man that you are!
Love and gratitude from where I am.
We hiked 22.4 km in 7.5 hours. I was alone much of the day, which was good. It tested my mettle, to be alone. Our hotel type accommodation that night was great. We three wanted our own space. No Symphony of Snores during the night. Only we found out Genghis Khan worked there and he was just a nasty, rude man. It was the first time I cried since I left Canada. He wouldn't help me so I just went back to our room and figured out a solution to our problem - getting our big backpacks to our next night's lodging - all by myself. I don't have fond memrories of Estella, but I did get my first good night's sleep. Plus we had a fan. The weather is getting hotter and hotter. We have to stop earlier each day.
Ju will be leaving us soon, as she is on a tighter schedule. Here are a few jewels from Ju and I quote without quotation marks:
Why do you have to pick the hotel at the farthest end of town, every time? Where is my bedbug magnifying detector? You should write a book, Joanne, entitled, " The EffinThings They Don't Tell You Aboout The Camino" like all the men walk around with their boys hanging out. (She used another word, not so nice!) All Spanish towns look the same. I only hang around with you guys because you speak English. (Never mind French and Spanish as well!) I had to take anger management classes cause I stabbed my boyfriend with a knife. Well, he put his hand in front of the knife! Last but not least - there are four types of people who do the Camino:
the young and the restless; the old and the useless; the fat and the hopeless; and the stupid and fearless!
There - I am done with Ju stories. We have had so much fun with her. They say the first week is the hardest? Well, she has made our hearts lighter by making us laugh. God bless her!
On a more solemn note, there are many memorials on the Camino. People have died,and their families have set up these simple crosses, as memorials. Many were in the Pyrenees- because of weather conditions and hazardous passes. One simple cross just said - Fin del Camino,the name and the year. How sad! Another had the same, but also a picture. He was a young Belgian man in his forties, and he died after climbing a long, but not steep hill out of the town of Cizur Menor. It makes me stop, think and reflect upon my own physical fitness. There are many, many people struggling on this journey. I have seen blisters that look like wounds.
We are happy, healthy and reasonably fit, Nancy and I.
Bonne nuit - my dear brother Jean-Marc, another good Samaritain on earth. Papa would be proud of the good man that you are!
Love and gratitude from where I am.
Jour 5 - August 26: dedicated to my brother André.
Day 5 - We left Cizur Menor for Puente la Reina. My brother of the generous heart is the first person I thought of when we headed out in the dark for the first time- using the wonderful headlights he gave us both.
We did 20.7 in 9 hours. I put one foot in front of the other and the heatwave continues. Of course our hostel is clear at the other end of Puente la Reina AND up a steep one km climb. Well worth it cause we have a POOL! The place looks like a former prison, but our little cottage for three is wonderful and the staff friendly.
It has been a wonderful day. I head the pack, Nancy is in the middle and Ju, our Taiwanese American new friend, brings up the rear. I am like the rabbit, Nancy the, and Ju the slow but steady turtle. We catch up to each other at rest places. At our first we eat breakfast at one cafe and then go to the next right beside, cause it has bathrooms and Wifi. We order lunch to go. Ju disappears, and when she returns we tell her - there is the lunch you ordered. I don't want that she says. I just wanted a $&))!
She gives her food away to two young Koreans named Yoon and Jun, who were at the same hostel as us the night and whom she befriended, finding out they are eating on 5 £ a day. They were starving. She told them she would buy them dinner that night.
So they walk up that long hill to eat with us. I think they are kind of sticking to her so she takes off to the bungalow. We bring them to say goodbye to her. They leave, she comes back in and says. "I gave them 50$ and told them to stop following me! God I laughed!
Trop d'histoires, si peu de temps.
Bonne nuit frérot Andre.
With love and gratitude from where I am.
Trop d'histoires, si peu de temps.
Bonne nuit frérot Andre.
With love and gratitude from where I am.
Day 4 - August 25th I think - dédiée à tous mes cousins Morais...
57 en tout et tous mes cousins Duguay- 37 en tout. Je suis la première à faire El Camino, mais je ne serai pas la dernière de tous mes cousins et cousines, sûrement?
I made a mistake in my previous blog. August 23rd was August 24th!
I put one foot in front of the other and hiked 27.3 km. We left Zubiri at 8:00 am and arrived at our hostel north of Pamplona at 6:00 pm. We hiked in 30 plus weather. It has been our longest hike so at. We hiked from one end of Pamplona to the other- from the suburbs, to the newer downtown, to the upper, beautiful walled city of Pamplona where the "Corrida de Toros" takes place every July. Pamplona is gorgeous - beautiful parks, clean, modern yet old, historic area. I was truly surprised!
When we finally got to our hostel Attila the Hun, the woman at reception, was not in a good mood. She had been fine with me over the phone when speaking Spanish, but with the other two she had to switch to English , and she wasn't a happy camper. When Ju hit her head on the top bunk, she said "Be quiet! People are trying to sleep!"
It is getting hotter in Spain. You get into a routine quickly- up early, start hiking, rest, drink water, eat, walk, think, reflect, chat with fellow pilgrims and say Buen Camino every time you meet or pass someone. I have taken to saying "igualmente" just to change it up, and just keep doing that over and over until you get to your hostel. Then you take the most awesome shower you have ever had in your life, hang out your clothes to dry, eat a "Peregrino" supper for 10€ and hit the sack. Next day same thing all over. I am LIVING it and LOVING it. Every single minute of it. A German woman named Elke hugs me every time we meet up. She loves how I am always smiling. Who wouldn't be smiling?
Nancy and I had a FA moment (A EQUALS AWESOME-you can figure out the F) when we had an encounter with a humongous turkey in this courtyard in the middle of nowhere. I have a video I can't download, but let's just say Nancy has a very unique talent. You can't tell her call from the turkey's, I swear! I laughed for half an hour on this trail high up another Godforsaken mountain until...
I saw a lone man up ahead, who wasn't a Peregrino and was acting furtively. Nancy was a bit behind, and I thought "Great... a flasher!" I saw him move what looked like a jacket, from in front of him. I lift "Fidèle" (my walking stick), just in case I need to whack him. He greets me and points to his jacket on which he had arrayed fresh fruit and drinks. Did I feel like a schmuck? Oh yeah! I ate a delicious orange from the Canary Islands.
I must tell you that we are climbing ALL the time. I ask Spaniards about the next day's trek and they all assure me that there is very little climbing: it levels out. It doesn't! Their idea of flat is DEFINITELY not the same as mine.
No blisters yet. I really am in good shape and feel great- not so much Nancy and Ju, who have had
stomach and other problems.
I know this post is disjointed, and I apologize. I am exhausted but happy.
Bonne nuit chers cousins et cousines- all 94 of you!
With LOVE and GRATITUDE for where I am, Cizur Menor, Spain.
I made a mistake in my previous blog. August 23rd was August 24th!
When we finally got to our hostel Attila the Hun, the woman at reception, was not in a good mood. She had been fine with me over the phone when speaking Spanish, but with the other two she had to switch to English , and she wasn't a happy camper. When Ju hit her head on the top bunk, she said "Be quiet! People are trying to sleep!"
It is getting hotter in Spain. You get into a routine quickly- up early, start hiking, rest, drink water, eat, walk, think, reflect, chat with fellow pilgrims and say Buen Camino every time you meet or pass someone. I have taken to saying "igualmente" just to change it up, and just keep doing that over and over until you get to your hostel. Then you take the most awesome shower you have ever had in your life, hang out your clothes to dry, eat a "Peregrino" supper for 10€ and hit the sack. Next day same thing all over. I am LIVING it and LOVING it. Every single minute of it. A German woman named Elke hugs me every time we meet up. She loves how I am always smiling. Who wouldn't be smiling?
Nancy and I had a FA moment (A EQUALS AWESOME-you can figure out the F) when we had an encounter with a humongous turkey in this courtyard in the middle of nowhere. I have a video I can't download, but let's just say Nancy has a very unique talent. You can't tell her call from the turkey's, I swear! I laughed for half an hour on this trail high up another Godforsaken mountain until...
I saw a lone man up ahead, who wasn't a Peregrino and was acting furtively. Nancy was a bit behind, and I thought "Great... a flasher!" I saw him move what looked like a jacket, from in front of him. I lift "Fidèle" (my walking stick), just in case I need to whack him. He greets me and points to his jacket on which he had arrayed fresh fruit and drinks. Did I feel like a schmuck? Oh yeah! I ate a delicious orange from the Canary Islands.
I must tell you that we are climbing ALL the time. I ask Spaniards about the next day's trek and they all assure me that there is very little climbing: it levels out. It doesn't! Their idea of flat is DEFINITELY not the same as mine.
No blisters yet. I really am in good shape and feel great- not so much Nancy and Ju, who have had
stomach and other problems.
I know this post is disjointed, and I apologize. I am exhausted but happy.
Bonne nuit chers cousins et cousines- all 94 of you!
With LOVE and GRATITUDE for where I am, Cizur Menor, Spain.
Day 3 - August 24 - PART 2
Day 3 - part B
"Ju" is a Taiwanese- American woman my age, my size and who has my spirit! She also has this real deadpan sense of humour. We met her in the middle of a forest path trying to shove thirty pounds of "stuff" back into her pack pack. We advised her to purge at the next hostal that night. We stop for a snack, climb a hill to cross a major hwy and who is on the other side dumping stuff into a big garbage bin? Ju! We cross
over and find out that her hubby paid for her trip and packed for her- 30 days supply of Starbucks coffee, blister packs, Mole skins, Metamucil, you name it. You name it, she had it. She threw clothes out- she was a walking department store. Jesting we said "We could have used some of that stuff!" She tips the bin and dives in to haul out stuff to give to us. Honest to God! I have the picture.
She took a liking to Nancy and me and we ended up shadowing each other all day. We arrived at the Municipal Hostel, a real dump run by Godzilla, but there was no place else to go, we thought. Ju walks in, throws her backpack on an upper bunk and declares "I have high blood pressure. I can't sleep in a top bunk. Watch my stuff. I will be back". She was back in 10 minutes and declared" I found us three bottom bunks in a private hostel close by, and I paid for breakfast too. Come on, we are out of here!" Nancy and I were speechless. She wouldn't let us pay, told Nancy in an aside after "not to worry , she was loaded"; that we had helped her, end of story! We accepted with graciousness and gratitude, so happy to not have to stay at that awful municipal hiatal. We told others we knew there that we were leaving behind three bunks already paid for, and to pass that message on to new arrivals. Such is The Camino! The Avellano hostel was wonderful. We paid for Ju's supper but it was not in repayment. It was just The Camino Way"!
I have two days blogging to catch up up. J'espère que Louise pourra afficher mes photos de Ju!
I have two days blogging to catch up up. J'espère que Louise pourra afficher mes photos de Ju!
Day 3- August 24 - dédié à mon petit grand-neveu Antoine, fils de Michelle et Brad
Left Roncesvalles at 8:00 to arrive at Zubiri almost 9 hours later. A long day, 21.8 km and a hike of another 850 mètres in altitude. I was tired and
every muscle below my waist hurts!
Si je ne parle pas du temps c'est qu'il fait beau. On ne crève pas, comme en arrivant à SJPP dans une canicule de 35 degrés Celsius. Et nous n'avons jamais eu de pluie battante! We are blessed!
Let me tell you about the real gems on the Camino! Not the scenery, not the food, not the ... whatever.
It is people like the Oscar and Felix of The Camino- two portly German gentleman in their mid seventies who didn't look like they would survive the first 7.5 km, let alone the entire 28 km up to Roncevalles. They sent their backpacks ahead the second day and walked - a site to behold with their straw hats and a shopping bag in hand. They are only doing one third of the Camino. As one said " Our friends zey zink vee are crazy". Now THEY are showing true courage and determination One was always singing, a retired opera singer apparently. They are in a pic that my wunderbar sister will post for me from my email.
Then there are Claudio and Loris, two Italians whom Nancy and I met hiking down from that 1500 metres, which seemed to take forever. They were enjoying a break and offered us oranges. With their Italian and wee bit of French, plus my French and wee Italian, we ran out of conversation. I gave them a little souvenir of a bird and for lack of a better word, broke out into the song "Volare" which is the only song I know in Italian. Watch the video (if it works and I can post it in my email) to see the incredible, awesome moment that transpires. One I will never forget! (I never was able to post it, darn it!)
I want to tell you about our third gem, "Ju" from San Francisco, but that will have to wait until the next day.
Tout mon amour et reconnaissance et gros bisous au nouveau de la famille, cher petit Antoine.
Signing off with much appreciation from Zubiri, Spain.
Signing off with much appreciation from Zubiri, Spain.
JOUR 2 - 23 août: dedicated to my good friend Donna.
No one gave more generously of their time, energy, and generosity of spirit and pocketbook to help me get ready for this Camino Frances hike than Donna, so I thank her from the bottom of my heart.
We started out from Orisson and hiked almost eight hours to a max altitude of 1500 metres, through those incredible Pyrenees and their passes. We crossed the border into Spain and descended 300 metres to arrive in Roncesvalles at 3:30, for a total of 21 km. Our hostel was a converted Abbey- newly renovated. Lovely place. Time to wash some clothes (I just throw mine on the floor of my shower stall, squirt whatever soap I have - today it was shampoo, stomp on the pile, wring out after my shower) and put them on line outside. Supper, socialize with other peregrinos from Orisson and new ones we met today - try to blog while the Wifi works and before they turn the lights out! That is pretty much the daily routine.
We started out from Orisson and hiked almost eight hours to a max altitude of 1500 metres, through those incredible Pyrenees and their passes. We crossed the border into Spain and descended 300 metres to arrive in Roncesvalles at 3:30, for a total of 21 km. Our hostel was a converted Abbey- newly renovated. Lovely place. Time to wash some clothes (I just throw mine on the floor of my shower stall, squirt whatever soap I have - today it was shampoo, stomp on the pile, wring out after my shower) and put them on line outside. Supper, socialize with other peregrinos from Orisson and new ones we met today - try to blog while the Wifi works and before they turn the lights out! That is pretty much the daily routine.
What makes the Camino extraordinary is the people you meet. Like Mark (can't get away from that name) who was my upper bunk mate in Orisson. He tells me upon seeing me at the next hostel that night that I snored the least of the 5 ladies and since I was under his bunk , he would have no problem me being on top that night! He's an Ohian who sounds like a hillbilly from Kentucky who had to take a cab back to Orisson to pick up a shirt he left there-a very special one made by his son. Mark will reappear farther on The Camino with a different story, I am sure!
Supper was with a French couple who loved our accent and whom I kept amused with antics like hanging a spoon off my nose, or swatting flies with my guide book. All the other pilgrims ate at the Abbey. We had to be different (unintentionally) and eat at another restaurant.
If I had a Euro for every time someone said I had a cute French accent, by the end of the Camino I would have enough money to return.
Our bunk mates at the hostel? You guessed it! more Canadians; a young couple, he from BC and his girlfriend a cute little Quebecoise who was three months pregnant.
Too many stories and not enough time. Hasta la proxima.
Buenas noches a mi amiga Donna.
With love and gratitude for Roncesvalles, Spain and my second day on The Camino.
Supper was with a French couple who loved our accent and whom I kept amused with antics like hanging a spoon off my nose, or swatting flies with my guide book. All the other pilgrims ate at the Abbey. We had to be different (unintentionally) and eat at another restaurant.
If I had a Euro for every time someone said I had a cute French accent, by the end of the Camino I would have enough money to return.
Our bunk mates at the hostel? You guessed it! more Canadians; a young couple, he from BC and his girlfriend a cute little Quebecoise who was three months pregnant.
Too many stories and not enough time. Hasta la proxima.
Buenas noches a mi amiga Donna.
With love and gratitude for Roncesvalles, Spain and my second day on The Camino.
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